I've often been asked if I can take the Hopi to bits, so I did.
While being a bit shady in some areas, the design is surprisingly sophisticated.
It also has a secret button I didn't know about!
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While being a bit shady in some areas, the design is surprisingly sophisticated.
It also has a secret button I didn't know about!
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
The fact it goes up to 24.. I think you tell the device how many hours a day it is used for, and it tells you the annual consumption?
No idea what uH or AEC (or maybe REC?) mean though….
to see how the multiplexing works, let the slomo boys make a video
I would say that 1-24 counter let's you choose a number of hours a day, which than gets multiplied by power and by 365 to get the APC value.
Just here to tell that HOPI is being unboxed right now ❤ The T button is now described in the manual: "Key: adjust hours, display model, clear energy data. Remark: w hen display active power power will a lternate display the hours of load." There is also long and short press operation with graph provided! It can show even "annul CO2 consumption". Remember that "it will automatically stores the current operation as long as you not to press the key for more than 3s"!
I wish the USB was there as the back of the box shows tracking software
I'm surprised he didn't catch the rating on the back of the outlet. It's 13A @ 250V which is quite interesting for the 20A @ 240V max claim on the sticker..
facsinating clive !!
Maybe the USB is for firmware upgrades?
I just got my Hopi today and there were two issues, it had the wrong country plug and the red filter doesn’t completely line up over the LEDs so the left side is really bright. I attached the correct plug myself and I hope I got the polarity right but I’d googled it beforehand, (I’m not a sparky).
The case easily came apart in your hands, mine is very tight and I couldn’t insert the spudger tool. I watchwd this video a couple of months ago and I’ve now looked at it again and I know that I can access the LEDs as soon as I get the case open.
It's too bad you dont have 2 Hopi's…
You could plug one into the other one to find out it's own power consumption, and possibly open up a wormhole to another dimension in the process… 🤷🏻
Couldn't you reduce the flicker by hooking capacitors to the common anode/cathode of the 7 Seg modules?
You could theoretically put a faster osc in the board without affecting the serial communication, where it's SPI or I2C, they both have a clock pulse line
Although look at the datasheet for the microcontroller for max clock speed, i would say it's max would be 20Mhz, but don't quote me on that
Hearing the the US/Canada version has neutral and hot legs reversed at the 3 prong plug and carries this through to the outlet socket. Fixable with a little rerouting via the "battery" area. But the second issue is the socket does not have the wide and narrow slots for a polarized 2 wire plug setting someone up for dealing with a hot chassis/case if plugged in wrong. This one makes it a no go for me as people with less knowledge than us probably don't even know why polarized plugs and sockets exist – To physically prevent you from plugging it in backwards. I have some candle LED lamps where the outer screw contactor metal extends up well out of the socket. When I saw this I measured from it to ground just to make sure a bulb change wasn't going to become a hair raising event.