This lamp is one of the items that Michal sent me from Poland.
Although it looks like a typical remote control RGB lamp it has a different LED and drive arrangement from normal.
The odd reading of about 3V across the LED was down to the fact that it was pulse width modulating at a lower intensity, which the meter averaged.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
Although it looks like a typical remote control RGB lamp it has a different LED and drive arrangement from normal.
The odd reading of about 3V across the LED was down to the fact that it was pulse width modulating at a lower intensity, which the meter averaged.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
I thought the title said that it was from Poundland for a sec. lol
Using an Arduino with IR receiver you could read out the codes.
Terrible remotes, Clive. I have the "Jedi" brand of color lights, they look similar to these in your video. Unfortunately, the plastic membrane with the contacts have failed. So I will need to carefully abrade the carbon off the circuit board and solder miniature switches in their place. They should have been the silicone "chiclet" keys.
Someone left the L off the end – definitely no fuse or earth on that power board.. I do like the pile of remotes presumably left over from previous led bulbs you have destroyed over the years. Why not have a video destroying the remotes? Especially to see how many volts above 3 they can withstand before releasing the magic smoke and to see which component pops first – the chip or the IR led. Also I am quite curious as to whether pressing a button is needed to blow a remote control up when the input voltage is too high – I am assuming you DO need to press a button to pop the IR led
Even if it is not a Microchip PIC microcontroller, since it is pin compatible for supply and reset connections, how about changing the 8 pin soic package microcontroller with a real PIC and program it to make it compatible with a TV remote for example or add other effects or timer capability :). A PIC with an internal oscillator should be enough. Also you can change the IR receiver with a simple 433 MHz receiver in a small form factor to control it via RF. You can even mount a few of these lamps side by side or with a distance and provide a synchronious effect by remotely controlling them by giving each a unique ID for rf control.
Me listening to first 20 seconds: your doing what? 🤨🤨🤨
No, no, go not to Lethe, neither twist
Wolf's-bane, tight-rooted, for its poisonous wine;
Nor suffer thy pale forehead to be kiss'd
By nightshade, ruby grape of Proserpine..
I'm curious why the IR receiver is mounted over a hole. Is it for thermal isolation?
CLIVE, The next time you do a RGB remote bulb. Please SHUT your bench lights off. So we can enjoy the COLORS! Thanks Chris NYC 👍
How do you know whether to read the resistors as 028 or 820?
Did you know that Lethe is the Greek word for "oblivion" & the root of "lethal"?
i got a similar bulb in my shed it was on a 24/7 test without turning it off . then it started flickering random colors and strobing it lasted 2 months cycling the colors without being turned off
Nice how silkscreen has all resistors and transistors colour marked
I won a small RGB downlight from eBay for 2 or 3 dollars, and I immediately fried it by hooking it up to the wrong voltage. The remote I got with it was a lot like the one in this video, and it works really well for Arduino type stuff.
thats a remote control tombola for sure 😉
BIEDRONKA – rules. We have a lot more of this shit here. Some shit is better, other worse 🙂
Greetings from Poland!!! Subs & like (s)
HAPPY NEW YEAR 2018 !!!