This timer module is a very common component used in a wide range of European ovens and possibly in other parts of the world too. It seems to be prone to progressive failure, with the display getting dimmer and dimmer until it just stops working completely.
A replacement unit costs anywhere between £40 and £100 depending on where you buy it, and if you get an appliance service engineer in to change it the cost will be even higher.
These things are easy to change. Once accessed they simply unclip and the connections are a few spade terminals that just pull off. As usual, you should take a picture of the way the wires are connected before disconnecting them. But in this module there were just four wires. Live and neutral to power the unit and two connections to the relay contacts that obviously switched power to the oven.
In this case the metallised film X2 capacitor used as a capacitive dropper power supply had dropped in value from its original 330nF to just 56nF which meant there simply wasn't enough power to run the clock/timer circuitry any more. Note that for different styles of timer (some have two relays) and different supply voltages, the dropper capacitors value may be different.
If you enjoy my videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and replacement capacitors at https://www.patreon.com/bigclive
A replacement unit costs anywhere between £40 and £100 depending on where you buy it, and if you get an appliance service engineer in to change it the cost will be even higher.
These things are easy to change. Once accessed they simply unclip and the connections are a few spade terminals that just pull off. As usual, you should take a picture of the way the wires are connected before disconnecting them. But in this module there were just four wires. Live and neutral to power the unit and two connections to the relay contacts that obviously switched power to the oven.
In this case the metallised film X2 capacitor used as a capacitive dropper power supply had dropped in value from its original 330nF to just 56nF which meant there simply wasn't enough power to run the clock/timer circuitry any more. Note that for different styles of timer (some have two relays) and different supply voltages, the dropper capacitors value may be different.
If you enjoy my videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and replacement capacitors at https://www.patreon.com/bigclive
Hi Clive. I have one of these devices and for the sake of a £1 capacitor I’ll be trying to fix it however it looks like someone has already bypassed it somehow and so even if I do fix it I’ve got no idea how to connect it back uo 😂
Mind you, I suppose, it’s just a case of putting the relays in series with the oven element?
If you have the same issue with an oven which is similar to this you can check get your main oven to work by disconnecting the two tags on the relay which looks like the one on the left hand side when the clock is rotated around showing the back and connecting them together. This will bypass the relay which will activate when the clock is set to allow you to use your oven.
This is a safety feature to prevent the appliance from automatically powering up if you had children who like to fiddle or you had a power cut for example.
I recently replaced this capacitor on the display for an AGA oven (almost identical to the one shown) but still nothing is working even though the rectifier downstream from the cap is showing about 12VDC. Is there anything else worth looking at before I attempt to find a replacement?
Thanks for sharing this video really helpful.
My failing AEG oven timer unit had the same fault, resetting itself with a constant buzz noise.
Replacing the capacitor saved the money and brought the unit back to life.
Thanks for this just replaced the said capacitor and all working fine, will send the £50 replacement back when it arrives
Mine has just gone bang & flashed this morning, the begger hadn't even been on, It's going to cost £115 to replace, that is just the unit price…….GUTTED
If you didn't know, you can use a VFD as a preamplification tube(valve), though a crappy one. Still a fun project to do.
We can you buy the seven segment display
My clock numbers aren’t all displaying. Can it be repaired
Hi I've got one of these and replaced the component as you have done. I see that the relay looks a little brown and get no continuity across it, so suspect that has failed. I'll order the component and try my luck.
My mother has an Amana convection range with that same sort of button layout. They would just fall out on their own after a while
I've had these modules on just about every cooker I've owned and they're a right pain. I never use ANY of the functions and only set the clock because it looks better if it's the right time. And therein lies the problem: twice a year when the clocks go forward or back, I have to fiddle about for 10 minutes to work out how to change the time. This is completely a trial and error process and to make matters worse, if you don't get it right, the oven refuses to work. Ovens would be a lot better if they simply missed this contraption out.
I used to use dentist drills to drill PC Boards. They give very clean holes of a perfect size, and you can get them for free from your dentists, if s/he is willing to put them aside for you.
Hi, I have a question … This module has 4 wires: on the left side (where you connected the test cables) are the Live and Neutral. On the right side above is neutral too and the other one is for? Is it DC or AC? How many V are there?
Interesting thing to point out about these is that they use line frequency to drive the clock rather than a crystal (most do anyway)