This smoke machine has failed in one of the most destructive manners I've seen. The aluminium heater core has literally melted into a puddle. Let's take a look at how it was supposed to work and see if we can work out what happened.
Having disassembled the thermal switch in the video I'm inclined to think that an external fault occurred that caused current to bypass the thermal switch and flow through the heater until it overheated to such a degree that the thermal switch was baked and the contact lost its springiness and remained in the open position where the bimetallic disk would have been pushing it at the time.
The list of issues for this machine is staggering.
Three core cable but earth not connected despite threaded post being there for it.
Fuse holder fitted but not connected.
Cable has brittle insulation that splits around the gland area.
Cable may be copper coated aluminium.
Remote socket is standard 3 pin XLR with full mains voltage on it.
No last-resort thermal fuse, as used on most other machines.
Incoming supply polarity random between several units.
The one good feature it has is that the heater block is nicely made. It atomises the fog fluid well.
With a redesign of the electrics it could be quite a good machine.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Having disassembled the thermal switch in the video I'm inclined to think that an external fault occurred that caused current to bypass the thermal switch and flow through the heater until it overheated to such a degree that the thermal switch was baked and the contact lost its springiness and remained in the open position where the bimetallic disk would have been pushing it at the time.
The list of issues for this machine is staggering.
Three core cable but earth not connected despite threaded post being there for it.
Fuse holder fitted but not connected.
Cable has brittle insulation that splits around the gland area.
Cable may be copper coated aluminium.
Remote socket is standard 3 pin XLR with full mains voltage on it.
No last-resort thermal fuse, as used on most other machines.
Incoming supply polarity random between several units.
The one good feature it has is that the heater block is nicely made. It atomises the fog fluid well.
With a redesign of the electrics it could be quite a good machine.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Want to build one and what way do you think would be best to wire
Bigclive examined a Marq brand machine in another video. A key difference in that one is that there was a thermal fuse that would protect against the heater continuing to run when something faulty is plugged into the remote socket. Optimistic engineers design more profitable products!
With Smoke Schematic 😃
We had one these catch on fire and burn down a 24 foot high striker game! Scary!
What if you put there just water. It should evaporate and do steam.?? ?
I bet someone use it continuesly and liquid endup
Why yes I'd love 240V across pins 2 and 3 going down my FOH mic cables!
Let’s build a 1969 Cream type Oil Projector for LSD Party out of this Clive: Jag can provide the Holy Herbs: Smoke😃👌
Great vid! I have recently replaced my pump and the original pump had a ground wire going from a tab on the pump back to a ground screw. The new pump does not have that ground wire. Is there any significance for this ground wire for operation? I just stripped a wire between the pump mount and capped to the ground wire again?
Don't mind me, just here to make a smutty comment… He gives me permission and I got nothing! until he said… pump 240 down my dmx… then I felt a tingle!!!
I had to Pat test one of these yesterday. It failed. 😂
An led that lights when you press a pushbutton is a HUGE benefit for preserving the mechanics of the button, because it discourages heavy-handed users from pressing the button too hard. I recommend an indicator light for any and every push-button for this reason.
Hello Clive. Thanks for the breakdown on this toy.
The white fluff is asbestos, be VERY careful!
Don't allow a smoke machine (especially an oil based one) anywhere near a projector! The fans suck the oily particles in, they coat the optical surfaces, and you are in for a VERY expensive repair. Signed: one who used to repair digital projectors for a living. Oiled-up projectors were a nightmare to fix – an almost complete dismantling and cleaning of all the optical components. HORRIBLE!!!
"Sales Motivated Bluffing". Nice euphemism for bullshit, right there.
A very clever dual purpose device – a combined smoke machine and aluminium smelt.