I thought it would be quite interesting to take a cheap general purpose eBay contactor apart to see what the build quality is like. I'd rate this as being acceptable for prototyping and home workshop use. These contactors are available with 24v, 36v, 110v, 220v.and 380v coils.
Here's a general purpose eBay search link:-
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=cjx2&_sop=15
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Here's a general purpose eBay search link:-
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=cjx2&_sop=15
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Thank you sir
@bigclivedotcom I want to wire up my hot water heater to be a wifi controlled system; There's a vid here on youtube called "Smart Home water heater Add WiFi (and voice control) to your EXISTING water heater and save money 💵" who says to use a "120 volt coil 40 amp contactor" my tank is 4500 Watts on the high coil & 3500 watts on the low coil; which one do I go with because there's like a bazzilion of them & how would you go about wiring it up please ? (vid idea perhaps) let me know thanks !!
Or if you lived in Pakistan .
That contactor is a complete knock-off of the previous models of Telemecanique contactors. I should know as we built the damn things by the thousands in Celbridge, Kildare, Ireland. That would have been in the early to late 90's
Late comment, but FYI: DIN stands for Deutsches Institut für Normung (= German Institute for Standartisation), another common use is Deutsche Industrienorm (= German Industry Standard).
Looks good enough for many uses .But not where liability is involved .But in a pinch you could make your own transfer switch or controls for other motors and heaters ..Maybe even a compressor starter .but anything to do with production or safety ,Stick with seimens or schneider or allan bradely or Square d.Ill take NEMA over IEC any day but because everyone everyone is trying to go smaller and try to fit 50llbs of potatos in a 10lbs bag we always have issues with HEAT !Whats the Horse power Rating ??No horse power rating ,not for use with motors or inductive lighting ballasts like in HID or HPS
Ye mujhe chahiye Amazon pe nahi mila bhai
You know after watching you for a bit, I found my love back for electronics and making my own diy projects. Thank you. Right now I’m working on a digital/analog (red and blue leds).
In my opinion as an electrician if your going to fit one of these cheap devices I'd recommend installing an automatic fire extinguisher in the control panel!
I've seen loads of these cheap contactors from China fail. Im in NZ and everything here has to be approved and certified before its imported. Im sure its the same in most parts of the developed world. I've seen these things on aliexpress for $10 or less with free shipping, but the real deal quality stuff from the local wholesaler will set you back probably $200 if its from Schneider or Allen Bradley etc. Thats because these companies have proper quality control processes and the products are tested and certified. No proper electrician would fit this rubbish and sleep at night.
DIN: Deutsches Institut für Normung –> German institute for technical standards
Deutsche Industrie Norm = German industry standard
Relay
By the looks it's a pretty common clone of Schneider contactors, I seen them by many brand names including Tracon, GMV …
Talking about a factory when the machinery stops, reminds me of a service call I did some years back. This company was into making "filtration" products, and the input to the machine in question was big rolls of paper, which the machine was supposed to punch large discs out of. The paper production was continuing, and they were running out of places to put it. The controlling hardware on the machine was two boards full of 4000-series CMOS parts, and apparently some power supply issue had taken out a number of chips. The "fixer" on site couldn't quite seem to get a handle on the situation. There was a spare set of boards but they were of a different revision and both needed to be swapped out at once or it wouldn't work. We didn't find that out until the folks showed up who made the machine. I found a bad sensor whose wire ran inside the same conduit as some 220V power, which was probably why it failed and on replacing it they insisted that it be done the same way that it was, so I'm thinking that it didn't last. Perhaps some transient suppression on that particular input would have helped? I remember the guy's jaw dropping when I sketched out a simple crowbar circuit that could be put between the power supply and the machine to protect the boards in the event of future power supply issues. Two of us outside guys plus the factory guy plus the reps from the machine maker and after a couple of days it still wasn't up and running, management was not thrilled…
Always learn something by watching these vids. Thanks Clive.
Hi Clive, another reason why contractors are used is that the design of how they work clean the contacts as they energise and de-energise you don’t get that with relays
DIN rail is so named because of the noise that occurs when the forklift knocks over the rack containing all of your stock of it.
Clive you really are such a knowledgeable guy, thanks for the additional information about the inrush at the end of the video 👍👍