A complete teardown of one of the new driverless LEDs. It's interesting that these devices seem to be based on the chips used in some LED filament lamps. They seem to share a common array of LEDs, but have a number of driver chips bussed in parallel according to the power rating.
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Regardless of the cleaver design, the flicker produced by these LED's renders them useless!
Could one potentially filter the rectified voltage and smooth it out enough to stop the flickering?
Big Maths Clive!”👍
Thank you, you helped me a lot :)!
Wouldn't it be possible to put an own rectifier and capacitor before the the L and N plates and just feed it an already pre-rectified and stable DC signal? I mean, there would be some more energy lost but I think that it should make the flickering stop. Or am I missing something here?
EDIT, In case someone reads this: Just after this video finished I saw there is a follow up video for this, where this exact option was talked about it turns out, that it is possible.
I have recently purchased these for around $1.75 for the 20watts but wow do they get hot, i suppose I just learned something, i plugged one in against a piece of aluminum din rail and i turned it off around 130c. I wasnt sure how long it could last like that. It did start dimming, but cooled down and got bright again like you said. I also recently tried a coffee cup heater for soldering under these aluminum pcbs from the thrift shop in town for a fiver
Hi clive i am really glad i found this channel, especially tgis very informative and educational video on this cob led. Lately i have been spending alot of time on these and ultimatly getting them burnt in quicker times, probably because i used higher wattage cod leds in lower wattage metal casing flood led lights, thanks for clearing many of my ambiguities and confusions regarding these.
P.s. i burnt 3 cobs even today, thats why found this channel due to. But i am really lucky to hace found your channel- subscribed.
Potting is the most important thing but they are disposable and you need to put an inline surge suppressor because even though led light can be pulsed at a much higher voltage than their rating AC mains voltage is very dirty.Also you need a mica isolator for some .And the better the housing fins (Cast aluminium,zinc)Copper if you have the cash the cooler they run and longer they last .In theory
Is it a COB led or else?
For my bench light I used three 30W 110V COBs in series to my 230Vac rectified and smoothed by a 50µF electrolytic cap. The do get quite warm but not really hot with a medium black heatsink passive cooling.
This would have been a diy dream when they made them with an open pad and a resistor to "programming" down the current… I think many diy led retrofit lamps would highly profit from these but with less wattage, 50w package set down to 20W should run this cool and for ever… But no China puts silicone everywhere 🙁
220v model rectified DC voltage?
hi clive. Greg fall city wa usa
Since you just used your mag glass to show off your over head light that does not flicker, do you have a vid pertaining to your overhead light?
The flicker in most lights is what is keeping me from making a full changeover to leds as room lights from florescent tubes.
Do you explain how to fix a flicker? Or to smooth it out? Somewhere?
I mean i have not watched all of your vids as of yet but i am working on it as fast as i can. LOL
A little project to practice I bought a led string with a controller EPS 8266 mod. Any yeah or nays on the eps8266?
thankyou sir
Aigan diodegonewild reviewed that same thing 🙂