A followup to the earlier teardown video on the driverless LED with an insulation test of the substrate and the addition of an electrolytic capacitor to the PCB to convert the rectified AC to smoother DC.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
Any ligth that flick more than 50 hertz gone look like "no flikering" but thats not true , the true is yuor eyes can not see more than that (persistence of vision its about 50 hz)๐
Developed Captive Reactance and Hi Volt led supplies with output caps . 23 years ago " light based technologies ".nothing new here.
It was a very windy day outside on the isle of man
I have an outdoor balcony light, the G23 9w bulbs don't last very long.
I saw this video and wondered if I could wire one of these in, it has a 240v (5/7/9/11w) driver, would this work as the supply?
Thank you for this and all your great videos. What if you put an X cap in series with the line to lower the current along with the filter cap maybe you could reach a balance that would correct power and flicker. I have 20,30 and 50 watt 110v versions with 144 leds each that look similar to yours. Haven't powered yet. Possibly the 60hz AC line here will make flicker less noticeable.
This did work in your other video qith the floodlight. Why is this different?
i got a 5W led 12V and it gets hot 45C round. also built a 12V pack out of used 18650 batteries and going to make a nice torch out of it……
Would it be possible to use an inductor/magnetic ballast and some diodes to reduce the ripple? So it gets mains waveform and a phase shifted waveform?
Can someone please suggest a video that explains capacitor additions like this? That's where my understanding of electronics gets fuzzy.
The slim fiberglass insulation is prone to fail in prolonged continuous use I got multicolor driverless which changes colours by switching it on n off I run it four full nights n it shorted insulation from mains to rectifier …I put an adiquate heatsink n thermal compound….I put in outdoor sealed aluminum housing from my old spot light
Does anyone know if we could swap the 6,8ohm resistor for a higher value one to act as a dimmer of sorts?
the flicker came back. You also need to increase the value of the current programming resistor to keep the same rms current and keep the power dissipation and temperature down. That way there will be no flicker and the lamp will run at the same power as before.
But what if you added the cap after the chip, in parallel to LED string?? Flicker should be gone with no negatives perhaps?
What if we connect capacitor directly across leds ?
I know this is an old video, but have you tried using a variable capacitor and check power output in varying capacitance. Maybe a small enough value would fix the high rms issue
Couldn't you not just add the Cap after the Rectifier ?
Named driverless LED while they use CCR (Constant Current Regulators) ๐ I got similar lamp from aliiexpress and one brokes after some time at power on moment. Same hapens with my own DIY cyt100b lamp. At Turning moment start only blurry. After testing find one of diode in series went broke. After replacing diode I add 380k resistor in paralel to leds. Do this solve problem with paralel diodes went damaged ?