This is one of a variety of LED panels using COB (Chip On Board) mounting of LED arrays. In this case the unit is designed to directly operate on 12V by using four parallel groups of LEDs wired in series to give a combined forward voltage of 12V (4 times the typical 3V forward voltage.)
Unfortunately this unit would pass an extremely high amount of current if used in a vehicle, as the alternator charging voltage is higher than 12V and while the panel drew about 350mA at 12V (4W) it increased to about 1 Amp at 14V (14W) and that results in the metal backplate getting very hot quickly. The inclusion of self adhesive foam strips to attach the lights to a surface doesn't help much as the foam would provide extra thermal insulation.
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Unfortunately this unit would pass an extremely high amount of current if used in a vehicle, as the alternator charging voltage is higher than 12V and while the panel drew about 350mA at 12V (4W) it increased to about 1 Amp at 14V (14W) and that results in the metal backplate getting very hot quickly. The inclusion of self adhesive foam strips to attach the lights to a surface doesn't help much as the foam would provide extra thermal insulation.
If you enjoy my videos, you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and dubious LED devices at https://www.patreon.com/bigclive
Is it possible to use a 12V Zener Diode to get constants 12v ?
So these on a 12v 1amp adapter would be ok heat wise?
Not to keep having the + – being so close to the ali case
I want to use these for reverse extra lights to see the sidewalk and such things…anybody think it’s a bad idea?
I run a regulated 12 volt circuit in any vehicle and this gives them huge reliability and a long life.
Very cheaply made. I bought 2 sets for my VW Beetle grill both failed. Not waterproof. The wires are exposed at the connection. They are bright and worked well, briefly as Daytime running lights. Also I had to use zip ties to keep the tape from releasing it's grip…probably because of the heat generated.
Are they dimmable ?
There good solar panels
looking for info on how to cut a COB strip like this, its linear with 40 led's on it, the power instead of being on both ends, comes out offset on the top about 10 led's down. is it possible to cut anything like this?
I ordered these cheap strips from china.They are really strong:6,5W@12V@550mA.Almost illegaly strong light.I also tested them if they would sustain if emerged in water and they did.Are the soldering points covered whith a lacquer or so if they don´t can be short cut?
The chinese call it nano-but this is only a buzz word for a more ordinary method to isolate electrically,I think.
Do you still have link?
I like the idea of using what I call a chopper circuit to pulse LEDs and vary the duty cycle so they don't draw current all the time. Pulse Width Modulator, used as a dimmer on my under cabinet lights.
Cars normally run at up to 14.4 volts at which point the vehicles alternator cuts in, the normal vehicle battery voltage is around 12.6 volts stationary and up to 14.4 volts engine running, therefore it is vital thet both voltage and current are regulated before using these items in a vehicle application.
Why cob light is getting hotter when in used..
So how can I fix this problem? I agree my alternator kicks 14.9V when current demand is high. I have used various units like these and strip led and about 30% failed leds (they are sealed up totally, so no damp) Some still light up with raised voltage, I think they are fatigued by the high voltages/heat. Can I measure current and build something simple or is a regulator board the only solution? Then if I drive them at 11V will they live longer? Great content Thx
i had a set of these and some others like it mounted to my car, they last for quite a while before failing, even though they heat up like crazy you shouldnt forget a car is usually in motion and the driving wind will cool them down
I have the exact same . I removed to positive and negative and welded a thicker gauge wire…