There's a wide selection of these little timer modules on eBay, and while seemingly quite useful little devices for including into projects, they do seem to have rather cryptic time setting methods. The two featured here have some very odd and quite frankly poor design features which completely rule out their use in a mains switching application due to ridiculously low isolation between the low voltage and mains side.
Once again, the vague or non existent instructions turned a simple timer into a puzzle (OK, I did enjoy working it out) that had me perplexed for a while with the second unit and the time range feature that can require split-second timing to catch!
But once programmed they do seem to operate properly. The strange design bodges do make me wonder whether they would be stable in the vicinity of inductive loads and their transients.
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Once again, the vague or non existent instructions turned a simple timer into a puzzle (OK, I did enjoy working it out) that had me perplexed for a while with the second unit and the time range feature that can require split-second timing to catch!
But once programmed they do seem to operate properly. The strange design bodges do make me wonder whether they would be stable in the vicinity of inductive loads and their transients.
If you like my videos you can support the channel by chucking a dollar in my general direction for coffee, cookies and gadgets at https://www.patreon.com/bigclive
I love all your reviews, now 7 years on the, about the time I have been using these modules. The one to go for is the HW-521 and make sure this is printed on the front of the board. The more expensive YYC-2S is badly designed as after programming , the digits are blank so you you have little idea what you are about to trigger. I guess his day started with a sip of whiskey from Jura )
can you go above 999 seconds? like can i do an hour timer , 24 hr timer?
I have one of these to use for computer cooling fans, ended up using W1209 "thermostat" module instead. The programming is reminiscent 🤣
I have the slightly different (but exact same layout) DK-C-01, and I'm happy to inform you that they no longer use an opto to drive the relay and there's an actual milled slot between the middle relay pin and the ground plane. This one is an advanced version though – three buttons instead of two, and it has four different timing/delay modes; nothing you couldn't whip up yourself in a hurry (sans display) with an Arduino, but exceedingly convenient when you don't feel like it, especially by having that relay already on board…
Clive, if these things are aimed at the DIYers, the complexity may be clear to a pro, rather than we the unwashed no ?
bloody rubbish,chinglish instructions that declare 'really simple' stamped on the first one and about to stamp on the second
Relays driven with optoisolators has become a big thing
Ive never yet seen one of these videos that can show how to use these.
How quirky! I would imagine that these were made for some very specific application and environment, and that the ebay stuff is whatever was left over. I'd find an arduino probably more useful for doing this sort of job, I think.
More china crap
Cheers Clive I'm currently looking at one of these on ebay to control a train on my model railway and needed to find out if it would do the job before I buy one. The second one looks to be perfect for my needs! 🙂
Hi Clive I’ve built a simple 12v alarm system for my shed. It comprises of a 12v power source, switch, PIR switch and 150 dB ish siren. My problem is the Siren sounds when I set the alarm using the switch once finished in the shed. The PIR switch closes when powered up just like when on a security light. So I’m looking for a way to delay the power going to the siren. So the PIR can power off not triggering the siren.
Question is can I put the second module in your video between my PIR and siren. Or does it need constant power to retain programming?
Thanks
Hi Clive, I am impressed by your clarity of thought. Can I trigger this timer with a 3 wire inductive sensor.?
for 2 cents they could have included a sheet of instructions,what the hell?
I forgot to add just now, that I could not go for a simple mechanical segment plug in timer because they all only go down to a 15 minute timing on as a minimum, which is way too long, so I had to choose electronic digital to get timings of 1 minute on minimum, as I wanted 2mins or 3mins max in any hour. So, referring to my previous comment, do you think this sort of timer will not do for electric motor waterpump and flue fan? What would be a solution for this application? Thanks, Alan in Norwich UK.
I bought a plug in digital timer switch, ( brand masterplug, only 6pounds from b&q), it says its for loads up to 2400watts and only says this, with no mention of inductive loads as on other makes. So I used it for timing 3mins on in every hour to my central heating boiler, so it switches a water pump motor and a flue fan motor. It worked for a day, but now will not work at all, no output on any setting, even the setting 'always on' manual overide. Do you think it was an inductive type load that has damaged this timer? I specifically bought this timer as it just says 'max 2400watts', as opposed to one I saw in asda that says ' max2800watts resistive, 325 watts inductive' , so I went for this masterplug one instead as it makes no mention of a lower handling in watts if inductive, and I assumed therefore that 2400 watts referred to every type of load. But it packed up completely after a day, what do you think about this? I appreciate very much any advice from you please, many thanks, Alan, in Norwich Norfolk, UK.
Hello sir. How can I connect a timer module to a 254nm inverter germicidal lamp? Currently it’s connected from the AC power source 120V-5V converter-12V Rocket switch-5V dual lamp UV 254nm germicidal inverter lamp