It's clear that these very low profile LED floodlights with the "driver" chips on the same panel as the LEDs are not reliable. There seems to be an issue with the driver chips failing and blowing the multi-chip LEDs. So I thought it would be fun to build a complete new retrofit LED module to re-use the case as a much lower power LED floodlight that is best suited to low level ambient or functional illumination.
The design deliberately uses an ordinary through-hole PCB and very common components, and is completely serviceable with all components being changeable or upgraded if desired. The power output is low at about 1.5W, but still provides a modest level of illumination and has a negligible running cost.
You can download the PCB file from http://www.bigclive.com/freebies.htm if you want to make one of these yourself. I've put both files up, but the 5mm version is the recommended one.
Things worthy of note. There is a facility to connect the earth/ground wire from the flex to the case via the PCB. This does require a metal spacer like a metal nut slightly larger than the screw that the case is designed to accept. The screw holes in this case were M3 so an M4 or M5 nut might be a good spacer, noting that it shouldn't be too big in case it encroaches on adjacent tracks. The other positions could use either the same spacer or better still, a plastic spacer of the same height. The PCB needs to be well clear of the back of the case to avoid the solder connections touching it. I'd suggest around 4 or 5mm clearance to allow for the possibility of slight PCB flexing due to thermal expansion/contraction. You could also use a layer of insulating material on the back of the case as extra protection. As in the original light, there isn't really any proper flex grip other than the cable gland and the actual wires being attached to the PCB.
You can use any colour of LED you like in the case including infra red. But note that the 15-20mA drive current will not provide high level illumination. Still very useful for path lighting, security lighting and illumination of foliage with appropriately coloured LEDs though.
If you enjoy these videos you can support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and LEDs at https://www.patreon.com/bigclive
The design deliberately uses an ordinary through-hole PCB and very common components, and is completely serviceable with all components being changeable or upgraded if desired. The power output is low at about 1.5W, but still provides a modest level of illumination and has a negligible running cost.
You can download the PCB file from http://www.bigclive.com/freebies.htm if you want to make one of these yourself. I've put both files up, but the 5mm version is the recommended one.
Things worthy of note. There is a facility to connect the earth/ground wire from the flex to the case via the PCB. This does require a metal spacer like a metal nut slightly larger than the screw that the case is designed to accept. The screw holes in this case were M3 so an M4 or M5 nut might be a good spacer, noting that it shouldn't be too big in case it encroaches on adjacent tracks. The other positions could use either the same spacer or better still, a plastic spacer of the same height. The PCB needs to be well clear of the back of the case to avoid the solder connections touching it. I'd suggest around 4 or 5mm clearance to allow for the possibility of slight PCB flexing due to thermal expansion/contraction. You could also use a layer of insulating material on the back of the case as extra protection. As in the original light, there isn't really any proper flex grip other than the cable gland and the actual wires being attached to the PCB.
You can use any colour of LED you like in the case including infra red. But note that the 15-20mA drive current will not provide high level illumination. Still very useful for path lighting, security lighting and illumination of foliage with appropriately coloured LEDs though.
If you enjoy these videos you can support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and LEDs at https://www.patreon.com/bigclive
I'm not sure, but I think the biggest negative impact of lead-based solder is during recycling/dumping, especially in places where they burn the junk electronics to get the copper out. There, the fumes will likely carry the lead into the lungs of the kids who work the dumps. Or the lead of rotting components seeps into the ground water.
Another issue, I imagine, is lead mining.
Again, I'm not quite sure, but that seems (to me at least) reasonable reasons to move away from lead based solder. I for one never had any issue with lead free solder, but then again, I'm no intensive user.
You could have partially removed the first clip. I though you were going to do that. In fact, would it have worked if you just let some of the etchant in and resealed?
Hi I’m trying to build a 5w or 10w flashing led to see my radio controlled car at 1000ft+ have you made a video on anything like this in the past ?
Good one thankyou john
I copied this advanced design and replaced all smd leds and they are selling like hot cakes
Late review – Lead solder is perfectly safe, unless you are soldering at 600 degrees C, this is when you get lead fume which is not safe at all! So why its so difficult to buy lead solder I have no idea – mission creep I think.
What type of leds are these, and where can I find the different types?
Your videos relax me. Thanks for sharing.
Really love this video. Bigclive I would like to power a 40vdc wall pack led board and fixture. The driver is no longer working. I would like to use one of my ryobi 40v tool batteries to power it with an infrared remote control circuit. The battery is being charged thru mppt dc conversion. What kind of cc cv switching board would be used? Would make an interesting video.
Would this circuit work as an LED retrofit for street lights?
I bought an outdoor floor that runs on 12 V ac or DC. I bought a real outdoor transformer and so far it has been working for 5 years! The leds last forever but the supply lasts a year or two.
What a brilliant little kit for a newcomer into electronics.
👍👍👍👍
Sounds like a guy I had to end up firing. He would get a car on the lift then say it’s done and there’s a pile of undercarriage plastic guards laying around back of the shop. His logic was the customer wouldn’t know it was gone. Obviously I made him put it all back and about the 3rd time I had him put the stuff back I fired him right after that. If it’s on there when it comes in put it back